I work with chemicals a lot, and I'm a workplace safety trainer. Take it or leave it, I've had better results than Evaporust (and I've used Evaporust for the past 10 years) with this product for 10 times less money, I'm satisfied so I just wanted to share. No, it's exactly the same thing as Evaprust except with Evaporust you pay for water (it logical, water wheighs a lot, so transport WILL affect the price), with this product, it acts the same way with metal but you add the water yourself, think of it as a powdered Evaporust (which in fact, it is).Įvaporust is already a water based rust remover, this product as well, it's safe for skin, just like Evaporust (allthough I rather wear gloves). Not sure that is true for some of the other options suggested here - although it looks like oxalic acid is a chelating agent too. My understanding is that Evaporust is a chelating agent, so it doesn't eat away the good metal, just removes the rust. I was playing with a new product and it showed me why I should not have done it.So this eBay powder contains both an acid and a base.and you add water.now my chemistry might be a bit rusty, but ? When I removed it, the bluing was gone on any part that was in the chemical.Ī very stupid mistake on my part as the rust that was there could have been removed with Kroil and some 0000 steel wool. I went into the house and returned about 15 minutes later to find my gun all the way into the Evapo-Rust. I put some light wire around the grip and inserted the gun to where it was just touching. I have a High Standard 22 magnum derringer and it had rust on the end of the barrels. I will give you a warning about this great product though. I purchased some old rusted tools at a garage sale and they look like new now. I have yet found anything that it fails to work on. You might want to check Wally World also. If Jamie purchased it for such a low price then I would go there. The price they quote is 18.99 now and I think I paid about $12 so it has increased. Doesn't get much simpler than that.Įvapo-Rust was purchased by me about 18 months ago from Midway in a gallon bottle. Use was absolutely simple: Put the product in the solution overnight, rinse the next day, and coat in oil. I believe it cost around $7.00 at O'Reiley's Auto Parts. I coated the first block with Kroil.įrom my experience, I would absolutely recommend this product. It looks fantastic.Īfter taking the pic, I put the other block, sprue plate, and hardware in the solution. This is how the worst looking block turned out. This is how I just took it out.īut the real success was in the cavities. So I left the mould in the solution overnight. I rolled the it over and placed it back in the solution. However, I still had a slight rusting on the exterior of the mould and the cavitites still had a little rust. I would say that 90% of the block was amazing. The results: After 1/2 hour, this is how the mould looked. Using a plastic storage container from Dollar Tree, I placed the mould on the bottom and poured enough Evapo-Rust in to cover the mould by about 1/4". This is the product package and the mould in question. This would give me (hopefully) the most drastic transformation. I decided to do the worst looking block of the two. I am almost ashamed to post these before pictures. When I checked the mould a few days ago, I noticed some rust in the cavities. From the first time I used it, the mould flash rusted but the cavities remained in good shape. In October 2008, I purchased a new Lyman 4 cavity mould (Cut Aug 08). This has worked for me with Saeco, Modern Bond, Ideal, Lyman, RCBS, and Cramer moulds. Since North Dakota isn't exactly known as a humid environment, I typically cast in my shed and let the moulds cool down on their own overnight, recovering them the next day. I have a problem with one mould in particular, so I decided to give it a try. I read on the forum of some folks using a product called Evapo-Rust to get rust out of their moulds.
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